User:Stewartadcock/Climbing techniques

• I intend for this article to eventually replace the current climbing technique article.
• As soon as I find some willing/bribable models, I'll get some pictures for some of these techniques.

Climbing techniques are techniques, or moves, used in climbing. These include particular methods for holding onto rock and moves required to ascend over certian features in the rock.

In this article, the techniques are organised into three categories; static techniques, rest techniques, and dynamic techniques. The static techniques are non-committing, and often reversible, moves that enable a climber to make progress on a route. The rest techniques are methods for a climber to remain stationary on route while expending minimum effort. These are essential on a longer pitch, allowing the climber to assess the moves ahead, to rest and relax their muscles and mind, and to apply climbing chalk or maybe tape. The dynamic moves are often extreme and non-reversible. Dynamic moves might be considered as controlled lunges.

Several techniques are specific to particular rock types or features. For example, most routes may be classified as either face climbs or crack climbs and many techniques are useful only on one of these classes of route.

Some additional techniques are described at the very end of this article. These are specific to certian situations.

Static techniques

Static techniques are generally characterised by being either stationary or reversible. Examples of the stationary techniques are the fundamental holds and methods for balancing on the route. Other techniques allow a climber to progress along a route.

The basics

There are a few very basic techniques, so basic that they might be considered as just tips, that must be mastered before even the most moderate climbs can be successfully completed.

Jams

Edging a climbing technique involving the placement of the very edge (either inside or outside edge) of the climbing shoe on a sharp hold. Edging is the most simple approach for standing on holds but, even so, requires some practise to obtain the very best footings. It is an exercise in precision.

An alternative to edging is toeing-in, where the toes are placed on the hold. This requires strong toes but might be preferable on very small holds, particularly in small pockets.

Another alternative is smearing, where the ball of the foot is, literally, smeared onto the surface of the rock in absence of any definite holds. Here one relies upon friction created at the sole of the shoe.

heel hook

   hooking your heel behind a grip for balance 

toe hook

   hooking your toe behind a grip for balance 

finger jam, hand jam, fist jam

   jamming a body part in a crack to use as a hold 

chest jam

   method for resting 

arm bar, elbow bar

   larger jams 

no-hands rest

   method for resting without using your hands 

holding a grip tendu or arqué

   different ways of holding a grip 

piazzing

   method for climbing a vertical ledge 

chimneying

   method for climbing a chimney 

egyptian (climbing)

   method for reducing tension in arms when holding a side grip 

mantling (climbing)

   boosting upwards with only ones arms, ending with arms fully extended downwards

backstep

layback

Rest techniques

The rest techniques are methods for a climber to remain stationary on route while expending minimum effort. These are essential on a longer pitch, allowing the climber to assess the moves ahead, to rest and relax their muscles and mind, and to apply climbing chalk or maybe tape.

Dynamic techniques

Jump!

The dynamic moves are often extreme and non-reversible. Dynamic moves might be considered as controlled lunges.

Dynos

Specialist techniques

Clipping.